
TOMMY SCHULTZ uncovers a diver’s paradise off the coast of Negros Oriental.
Have you ever wanted to swim in an aquarium?
Okay, maybe not a shark tank—but wouldn’t it be great to get in the water with Nemo and other reef fish? If you have a chance to visit Dumaguete, you can definitely turn this dream into reality at nearby Apo Island.
The Philippines is home to some of the most spectacular “real-world” aquariums anywhere on earth. In fact, the world-renowned Shedd Aquarium in Chicago created a special exhibit about Dumaguete’s Apo Island for American tourists who aren’t lucky enough have a chance to visit the Visayas.
The exhibit attempts to recreate the environment and culture of Apo—a volcanic outcrop fringed by one of the world’s best coral reefs. But why settle for a museum exhibit when you can see the real thing for yourself?
In 1982, the villagers of Apo Island created a community-based fish sanctuary with the help of marine biologists from Silliman University. In the nearly 30 years since then, the reefs surrounding Apo Island have become one of the most beautiful seascapes you’ll find anywhere in Southeast Asia. Home to rare and endangered marine species, such as hawksbill sea turtles and bumphead parrotfish, divers and snorkelers can also see huge schools of jacks and a sunlit patch of shallow coral called the “Clown fish city.” Lucky divers have even spotted whale sharks, thresher sharks, and hammerhead sharks.
Apo Island is an easy day trip from Dumaguete, but to get the full “island life” experience, you need to spend the night. Liberty’s Apo Island Community Lodge (www.apoisland.com) is the best bet for overnighters, featuring a homey dining room built on the steep volcanic hills of Apo, with a perfect view of the island’s sunset. The resort’s dive masters can also take you on an unforgettable dive or rent you scuba equipment to explore the marine sanctuary.
From Dumaguete, take a bus or taxi to the Malatapay boat landing (just south of Dauin). The trip takes about half an hour, and once you’re at the landing you’ll need to catch a boat to Apo Island (which takes about 45 minutes). Liberty offers regular ferry service—just call +63920 238 5704 to arrange for pickup.
